Why open across the way from Seattle in Bellevue?

There weren’t any seafood restaurants over here, or many good restaurants. Microsoft being over here didn’t hurt.

Tell us about the ‘plank cooking’ technique.

I fed my family every meal off of a plank for six months and created The Cedar Plank Cookbook as a result. I wanted to find a way of cooking that would flavor food subtly and portray Northwest style. The Northwest Indians were the original founders of plank cooking. It helps maintain the moisture of fish, which should never be overcooked.

I’ve got one night at Seastar: What should I order?

My personal favorite is our King Crab, which is cedar plank–roasted. We cut the shell on both sides with a pair of scissors so we don’t disturb the meat. It’s very subtle. There’s no cracking crab involved. Guests’ all-time favorite is the ahi with jasmine ginger rice, steamed snow peas, and bell peppers. I took the coconut crème pie off the menu and people beat me up about it. So it’s not on there, but if you ask, there’s always a few hanging around.

What was your career path like?

I love eating so that’s where it begins; people seem to love the food that I love. I started out as a busboy, and felt like this should be my career when I was still in high school. One sous chef told me he was waiting for the day I came out of the closet. He’s still waiting, but I skipped the prerequisite dish-washing job because of it. At that restaurant, I ended up running the whole kitchen on Sunday and Monday nights.

What’s up next?

I love steak, so I’m opening up a steakhouse in Bellevue. I’d consider other cities, but I’m not sure you can have the same degree of control. The chef who taught me to make sushi in 1988 is now one of my partners. Another who started in ‘89 as a dishwasher is my prep sous chef. People have been with me for a long time.