With grub that’s honest and a bargain, you’ll never leave this Thompson Street trattoria feeling ripped off. The fatty, glistening platter of mostly house-made cured meats is a steal, the pasta is as authentic as it gets, and robust mains rarely go over twenty bucks. Vino choices are excellent and when your waiter suggests an after-lunch or -dinner amaro, take her up on the offer.

—PAMELADEVI GOVINDA