The jury is still out about the neon-green industrial lights hanging throughout this “tavern,” but no one’s arguing about the food. Duck Fat French Fries, served with an outrageous trio of aioli; and Coriander and Pepper Crusted Tuna, matched with seaweed salad, spicy tuna pot stickers, and ginger soy glaze, exemplify dishes where what’s served on, around, under, and inside the main attraction become stars themselves.