Since 1991, on a unique second-floor Mercer Street space, a small upscale Japanese restaurant by the name of Honmura An has quiety served as a haven for true food enthusiasts. Soon, or to be exact: This Saturday, the restaurant will close for good.

I recently sat down with the owner, Koichi Kobari, and got the scoop on a closing that has people wondering where in the hell they will get their fix of noodles and tori dango.

The Honmura An dynasty, founded in Toyko, has been going for generations, nearly 85 years. Due to family obligations, Koichi will be heading home to take over the restaurant (of the same name) back in Japan that is most precious to the family heritage. You see, Mr. Kobari is old school. Not one to attempt to manage from afar, he is doing the unthinkable for just about any American restaurateur: he is just closing shop and moving home.

Good luck getting one of the last seats. Even the other night during New York's snow storm, he had not one single cancellation. For those that want to try, telephone is (212) 334-5253.

—John McDonald

Honmura An, 170 Mercer Street, New York