CITY readers know BRIAN DELEEUW for his musical taste—a passion fueled by a stint in London. But as a native New Yorker, DeLeeuw might argue his taste for, well, food, surpasses even that. In this issue’s “Dressed to Grill” (page 86), DeLeeuw examines one of his favorite ingredients—fish—and what brings a fish from the ocean depths to a marquee menu item. He is working on a master’s degree in fiction writing from The New School in Manhattan.