KAI KÜHNE may have found his calm, but we at CITY are more than excited after having seen his latest collection. Kai took a break from showing last season, moved to new offices (which, Kai, I'm popping by soon now that fashion week is nearly over), and really found his way back to the heart of his talent: clean, smart, and structural fashion that warrants a second glance, if not a third and fourth. Kai has always been an ace with fabrics, and this season has him treating black wool in a way that resembles leather. The line as a whole had a certain slickness to it, from coated lamé to dyed fox fur to a finale of a sterling silver fringe dress. If the overall sobriety of Kai Kuhne's primarily black collection means anything, we can expect to see him on everyone's radar, as well as more apparent in high-end retailers internationally. --J.R.

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