FOR ME, sustainability thus far has meant that my favorite Balenciaga pants will withstand my rugged NYC lifestyle and last forever, but yesterday was a lesson in what it means larger scale, at a multi-line runway presentation of organic designers, set off by New York's own, Ekovaruhuset. It was great to see so many designers come together for a common cause, and even better to see that their designs can defy the myth of organic-as-hippie with some cool clothes. Fashion is catching on with the trend, and the importance of thinking about sustainability, as seen by the runway presentation earlier in the week that included organic wares from the likes of Marc Jacobs, Maison Martin Margiela, and scores of others. For more from these organic designers, check out the Ekovaruhuset store at 123 Ludlow St. in the LES. --J.R.

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KAI KÜHNE may have found his calm, but we at CITY are more than excited after having seen his latest collection. Kai took a break from showing last season, moved to new offices (which, Kai, I'm popping by soon now that fashion week is nearly over), and really found his way back to the heart of his talent: clean, smart, and structural fashion that warrants a second glance, if not a third and fourth. Kai has always been an ace with fabrics, and this season has him treating black wool in a way that resembles leather. The line as a whole had a certain slickness to it, from coated lamé to dyed fox fur to a finale of a sterling silver fringe dress. If the overall sobriety of Kai Kuhne's primarily black collection means anything, we can expect to see him on everyone's radar, as well as more apparent in high-end retailers internationally. --J.R.

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WELL GANG, two more days to go until New York fashion week ends. I think I may miss blogging to you all once it's done, and I'm sitting the European shows out this season (I'll be at home on Style.com with the rest of you). Speaking of Style.com, I must be doing something right to have been photographed for it by the Sartorialist three times! Check out the latest one here. I'm wearing a Mischen leather jacket and wide-leg Jane Mayle trousers ... and Prada heels for maximum height capacity!

How fun are Scott's photos? I'm addicted to his blog, one of the few I have bookmarked. Another one is thisheartsonfire.com, which is definitely the place to go to for non-watered down goings on and insightful cultural observations.

Anyway, Scott caught me coming out of Maria Cornejo's show, an anticipated one for me personally, because the majority of my wardrobe comes from her store. The collection was absolutley stunning. Cornejo's signature architectural style was injected with bold colors and prints, as one grouping focused on bright red, another on the nomadic spirit, resulting in an ecclectic and colorful mix of prints, made subdued by navy pairings.

I ran into my friend Hisham Bharoocha at the show. Hisham has a solo music project, Soft Circle, that will seriously blow your mind...a definite link to some other universe. Check it out!

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LAST NIGHT was the joint opening of the new Yohji Yamamoto store and the first New York Y-3 store, across the street from one another on Gansevoort Street. What a fun party! Ran into so many great friends, and made a few new ones. The guys from GQ, Details, men.style.com were there; mischievous photographers Dah Len, Jeremy Kost, and Barnaby Roper (who is shooting a story with me for our May issue) were there; designer Victor Glemaud, looking ever-striking in his red and tan ensemble, stopped by. I stole cigarettes from my friend Stephen Wong, who holds the inside secrets to what Helmut Lang is up to..... Who else did I run into? So many folks, I can't even name them all. The two stores across the street from one another made for some great rif raf going back and forth. Felt a bit like Mardi Gras. A note about the architecture of the Yohji store, which is really incredible: Designed by young architect Junya Ishigami, the store has a radical feature in standing as two separate structures, sliced in the middle by a cement open-air courtyard. The store part is more like a gallery, and so if any of us need another size than what's on the floor, the sales team must go to the other building to get it (by the way, there's a see-through window so stock is visible to the outside world). Even the dressing rooms are amazing. Shaped by white metal, it's like entering a heavenly cocoon. Definitely go by now that the store is officially open. The lovely sales team (hi Sato!) will be glad to help you.

Ah, as I write a pic just came in from my new friend, Vladimir Labissiere. It's of me and Roger Joseph, who is reviewing the shows for Metro this week. His insight is amazing, so pick it up daily. It's free too!

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JUST WHEN YOU THINK you have Diesel pegged, they come out with something new that dispels any notion of it being just a brand of cool jeans. The Black Gold collection shown yesterday at the tents felt more Rick Owens than Roosevelt Field, and I can't wait to get my hands on it! Proportions were played with beautifully, from faux fur shoulder capelets to wide leg pants synched at the ankle, creating a bubble and drape effect reminiscent of earlier AsFour. Fabrics were loose and draped for women, and a sampling of one-piece jumpers ran the range of high-end mechanic to '70s disco starlet. The men's looks stretched shirt lengths past the norm, falling below jacket length. Layers were the rage, toying with blazers, elongated knit cardigans, and worn-in fatigue style trenches. The color palate as a whole was perfect as well, shying away from extreme color to make way for urban hues: stone, faded slates, creams, and grey, with peaks of brown and deep purple as primary highlight colors.

Coming out of the show I ran into my friend, Andrew W.K. It was a surprise to see him at the tents, and we laughed about Diesel having been his first runway show ever over a bottle of Bawls. Ok, maybe we laughed more at the idea of drinking Bawls... I mean, how can you resist? Who named this stuff? I love that it's a sponsor for New York's biggest fashion event going. Who said fashion doesn't have a sense of humor? Anyway, I wanted to talk to him about the new club he's opening on Lafayette Street with Spencer Sweeney and a few others (more info to come about that soon), but had to run to get to Marc by Marc.... and that's where things took a wrong turn, literally......

I'm loving blogging to you guys, but sometimes I get so caught up in having my head down in my iPhone that I don't realize what's going on around me. So when I jumped in the cab and immediately started typing, I missed that the driver had headed uptown--to 68th and Lex.--instead of downtown to 68 Lex. To make a long story short, New York traffic being what it can be most of the time, I showed up to the Armory as the crowd was exiting. Boo, I was really looking forward to that show!

Ah, but all things have a silver lining.

Nearby to the Armory was a presentation for Oumlil, a relatively new menswear line that I might have skipped had I not missed MJ. Got into the elevator with my new pal, Tom Kalenderian from Barneys, and headed up to the penthouse. This is one to pay attention to, fellas. Clue one: raglan sleeves on a blazer. That's not easy to do. It's tricky enough on a jacket, but a blazer is quite a feat to pull off beautifully (ok, I can't take credit for knowing that about suiting....that was all Tom). Clue two: a one-shouldered vest on a three-piece suit. The line is inspired by colonial Casablanca, and so the idea behind the vest was to mirror the sashes worn. Other looks reference the sharp, clean finishes of military garments more directly. All in all, I got my eye on this one! Check it out:

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THIS IS WHAT I WANT to be wearing for fall 2008! The new collection for TSE is amazing. A perfect play on proportion, masculine and feminine styles, and utilitarian color palates. --J.R.

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Somehow it worked. And somehow it was my favorite part of the collection. It's funny, I didn't view the collection thinking western prarie, but looking at my photos now, it's really apparent. Karen Walker likes to imagine her gal always on the road, so it would make sense to hit up the western trail at some point. Maybe I'm wrong. Dunno--photos are a bit fuzzy, let me know what you think:

The shoes were all from designer Jonathan Kelsey, who I am going to look into a bit more. Super cute: --J.R.

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I SPENT MOST of the morning in the Apple store, sorting my non-existent email situation on my iPhone, but I'm back in action just in time for Karen Walker. But, before I begin with today's festivities, I must tell you about last night's parties. Last night was all about the music. John Varvatos celebrated another great collection (which I had a fun time watching with Howard Socol and Tom Kalenderian of Barneys) with a performance by Cheap Trick. Adidas kicked off its collaboration with Diesel on a line of denim in a basement warehouse space, where Chromeo performed. Energy was high all the way around, and a good time was had by all. I can't wait to try on a pair of the collaboration jeans for myself. There's a skinny black style that I have my eye on! --J.R.

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AS MY NEW CO-WORKERS AT CITY have quickly come to learn, when it comes to technology (multiple-line phones included), I'm essentially a spaz. And today, dear friends, I am sad to report that I have no email on my iPhone, so it's looking like I'm going to have to skip Badgley Mischka in order to head to the Apple store to find out what is going on (could be that I've dropped this beast one too many times).

To make matters worse, the battery died on my cell phone at the same time as my camera last night, so I've got more story than image to report from my day.... Let's hope my creative writing skills are in tact, now that I've had a cup of coffee.....

My camera died at Doo.ri, whose show was incredible. The clothes, to me, reflected that gorgeous moment between youthful let-go and adult sobriety. Fabrics began as dark and matte, the first look a cocoon dress. But just as I thought this was the mood the show would be settling in, kelly green and mint became the colors du jour, topped with angora knit hats that set the looks a lot more playful. A graffiti print cotton swing dress marked the transformation back to deeper tones and sharper silhouettes, and the hats turned from knit and floppy to stark shaped mink. It was a beautiful collection, though Doo.ri's signature draping techniques were slightly missed.

This photo is not very indicative of the collection, but I loved the geometric approach to the hair. Camera died before I can really get to focus on the clothes for you guys, but thank god for style.com! --J.R.

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WELL, THE BLOGGER'S BEEN BLOGGED! Our friend, Scott Schuman, aka the Sartorialist, caught me coming out of the Réyes show. I've been in a hat mode this week...today's was my favorite black knit cap, which I like in contrast to the ruffles and puffy sleeve of my Chanel cropped nylon jacket. By the way, nylon is a big trend for fall. It's been paired under men's suits and worn over women's dresses. Watch out guys, function is back, and more stylish than ever! --J.R.

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CHARLOTTE RONSON presented her usual run of cool clothes for cool gals at the Altman building. Afterward I ran to Barneys Co-op down the street to see about buying a possible outfit change, because I felt I may look a little too Mary-Kate and Ashley today in my big Margiela denim shearling and big black underpinnings from Shelley Steffe and Demeulemeester (that's been my M.O. this rainy fashion week, huh?). Well, I took a little 3.1 Philip Lim top and a pair of skinny black pants from Vince into the dressing room and decided that I like my outfit just fine. So, instead of my before and after pic, here's a sampling of the dressing room wallpaper. Cute, eh?

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BETSEY JOHNSON celebrated her 30th year in the business today with a speakeasy-style runway presentation that harked the Beat Generation and 1980s' "Beat It" ... all to the drum of cool. It was great to see Betsey back to sleek, form-fitting silhouettes, which is where she's always at her strongest. Capped by berets, looks ran from black short jumpers to bold blue sweater-knit dresses and larger-than-life red faux fur jackets. The show ended down memory lane with 30 years of Betsey's most standout looks, which I'm sure brought back a lot of memories for all us Fashionistas in attendance who were fans of Ms. Johnson long before we even got into the biz. --J.R.

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WELL, I TOLD YOU GUYS that Day 3 of Fashion Week would be somewhat about food, and boy was it! First off, breakfast at Balthazar...yummy enough to prep me for my day of 4-inch Jimmy Choos, which started at the tents at Herve Leger. I was really impressed by the way Max Azria reinterpreted the HL signature bandage style to include sculptural cardigans, cashmere capelets, and high-waisted trousers. The line has really transformed from the skinny-mini signature body, stamped in my mind as that boob-hugging dress Victoria Beckham once wore, into an architecturally forward collection perfect for the red carpet and the downtown set alike.

Afterward was a rush to the West Side for DKNY. As expected, the gals were a vision of metropolitan cool in heavy-knit cardigans and short puff dresses, with silhouettes repeated in jacquard and brocade prints as well. A few pieces felt very Gossip Girl, which makes sense given DKNY's dedication to authentic NY style. I would have liked to have seen more variety from the men's looks, but what was there definitely reflected the cool hand that would accompany the DKNY gal. --J.R.

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NOT ONLY IS Alexander Wang one of the brightest young designers out there, he's also the sweetest, which makes it no wonder that he brings the A-listers, the tastemakers, and the scene shakers into one great party before the show even starts ... and that's where scenes and memories are made during these chaotic and frenzied fashion weeks. But this show is especially exciting for me... Alex and i worked together when he created an art piece for my concept project, Playground, and I totally fell in love with him, so I'm thrilled to support just as equally.

Erin Wasson is styling a second season with Alex, which should be great to see (Erin and I worked together for W Asia last year, and, I swear, she practically styled herself ... gal's got taste!). Just had a great chat with Scott Schuman, the notorious Sartorialist, whose blog you should know and love, if you don't already....and I haven't even gotten to the celebrity mentions....oh, or the clothes. Report back in 20!! --J.R.

UPDATE: Well, the show just ended and, as expected, the collection looks amazing: a blend of sexy and tough, street and savvy. Alex knows how to play with proportions, combining oversized trousers with slinky tops and oversized jackets with fitted pants and skirts that can take a gal from day to night... and to the morning after. Alex added a line of 10 bags to complete the look, made of pre-washed leather for the ne'er-too-prissy gal (like me) who likes her digs a bit broken in. Kudos! --J.R.

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DAY 3 IS WHEN a gal takes a stand and says, "You know what? I'm going to eat today!" Yesterday's mad dash of shows every hour on the hour left me going till 9 p.m. without a meal. It was worth it, because had I missed Alexandre Herchcovitch in order to make Z Zegna on a full stomach, I might have had regrets. The shoes alone were worth it, such intricate heels that I can't wait to feature editorially! And the collection marks the further evolution of AH into a marketable and wearable brand ... my shopping list continues.

Z Zegna was amazing, some of my favorite menswear so far. Think There Will Be Blood meets Blade Runner on the old American railway. Hot stuff.

But by the time I got to Obedient Sons and Daughters, my eyes were growing a bit glazed over, and the glass of champagne with my friend Josh Peskowitz from men.style.com didn't help. But I quickly came to life once the models crossed the Hudson Theater stage. I have to say, in this, my day of watching friends' lines evolve and progress, this one makes me most proud. I remember talking to Swaim back when he was driving across the country from San Francisco to come to New York. I had learned of him from a friend, and wrote an article for Fader about this up-and-comer to watch. Swaim has hit some hurdles along the way, but seeing him now, an evolved designer, a husband (his wife, Christina, co-designs the line), and a dad, makes a gal proud. Obedient Sons and Daughters was definitely the highlight of the day. Key points to note were perfect tailoring, a mix of heavy grey wool and brocade prints, buduoir tuxedo jackets, and the introduction of bags made equally and interchangeably for men and women. --J.R.

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I LOVE THAT I LIVE in a world where my friends' progress is something tangible, more so than an abstract, cerebral expression of the balance between virtue and vice as we mature. I first met designer, Tom Scott, when he was essentially making knit scarves, albeit some of the coolest-looking ones going. And today, in a gallery-worthy presentation, the progression of his vision was realized in a full collection made up of an array of knitwear, translucent nylon, plastic-coated cotton, and more. His signature knits were all there as well, expanded to include headwear. And the lone male model beautifully set off the notion that Tom Scott's clothes are a force to be reckoned with by both fashionable women and men alike. --J.R.

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DAY 2 of fashion week, folks. Feeling a blend of Margiela and Demeulemeester today, inspired by the somber tones of Duckie Brown and Robert Geller's collections yesterday. Two incredible shows from the Dark Side, which one might expect from Geller, but many an eyebrow raised when the music shut off (yes, off) and guys walked down the DB runway primarily in black, but for subtle tones of kelly green and deep purple. Steven and Daniel of Duckie Brown usually infuse the most color into New York's menswear, so it will be interesting to see what this flipside view means for men's collections to come...

Evening made for a lovely lesson in music history as I chatted with famed music photographer, Mick Rock, at the Elise Øverland show. Here's a bit of trivia I bet few of you ever knew: before Michael Bolton was the long-haired crooner we love to hate and hate to love, he was a heavy metal singer named Michael Bolotnik. Yep, Michael Bolotnik. He did a dark, sultry cover of Otis Redding's "Sittin' on the Dock of the Bay" one night and the music money makers loved it. And the rest, as they say, is rock history.

Now, speaking of rock history, its influence was definitely apparent in Øverland's F/W collection (above): the Stones, Zeppelin, and the Styx's presence were all felt, injected with a bit of hot pink and feminine sultry to drive it all home on a modern chord. It doesn't get much better than that. My shopping wish list begins now. --J.R.

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TERENCE KOH is one of the hottest young artists in New York right now, but he is almost equally as reknowned for his ecclectic and expensive fashion sensibilities. From Balenciaga gold leather pants to Fendi furs, the extremes can all be found in Terence's closet. I've been trying to help him find the rooster feather vest from Ann Demeulemeester's Spring/Summer collection (which, if anybody's seen it, please e-mail me here at City). Last night at the Elie Tahari presentation, a model was wearing a white fur vest (above) that looked markedly similar. It was part of what looked like a really strong fashion shift for the brand for Fall, which is quite exciting. Now, in a sidebar note to Tahari's publicity department, can I borrow the vest for Terence? There are a ton of parties this week, and the cameras are clicking.... --J.R.

UPDATE: The mystery surrounding how to get the Demeulemeester fur vest was solved last night at the Bernhard Willhelm collection screening, which was directed by Nick Knight. I ran into Terence, as well as several others in this intimate setting that reminded me of how amazing, creative, and full of energy New York really is. Ms. Demeulemeester called Terence herself to tell him that only one vest was made thus far, and that it is currently with Vogue...

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RUNNING AROUND from show to show ain't easy in 4-inch heels, but the race to West Chelsea for Band of Outsiders was more than worth it. Amidst the galleries on 26th Street, in a yet-unrenovated loft was Scott Sternberg's take on woodside manner: tartan plaids, fur hats, tan corduroy, hiking boots à la a collaboration with Sperry, moss, leaves ... and a disco ball (hey, the perfect gentleman needs to have all vices covered, even when roughing it). Both Band of Outsiders and Boy (his women's collection) looked incredible in their balance of utility, androgeny, and just straight-up leisurely cool. The space soundtrack of Beirut, Magnetic Fields, and Joy Division is great, too! --J.R.

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WHAT SEEMED LIKE my first laid-back day since starting here as Fashion Director of CITY Magazine two weeks ago just went manic when I realized what day it was.... I was on the horn with Apple for some iPhone tech support so that I can effectively communicate to you all from the bleachers, when suddenly I noticed that it was Thursday, not Wednesday, and so I am now in a cab rushing to West Chelsea for Rachel Roy's F/W 2008 presentation. Jen Kao, Elie Tahari, and my friend Scott Sternberg of Band of Outsiders all have presentations within the same two-hour window! And thank God I stuffed a pair of YSL heels in my bag this morning! Day One in flats? Not an option. Now let's hope the taxi commission gods are on my side. More to come shortly.... --J.R.

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